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Day 13: Clackmannan—>Edinburgh —>Clackmannan

Alas, a day without packing and moving! We slept pretty well in the Murder Pod considering our bed is also the kitchen table banquette. Surprisingly, it is much more comfortable than the bed we had in the posh stone cottage. I think that bed was original to the house from the 1500's. The Murder Pod's water pressure, for those that are tracking my water pressure reviews, it was surprisingly well pressured! Better than our house. Maybe we need to consider a Murder Pod instead of a bathroom upgrade?

We spent the day in Edinburgh with at least 2 million of our closest friends. It was the first weekend of the Fringe Festival. It was completely mad! There were so many people it was hard to see and enjoy the full beauty of the City. But we did our best and enjoyed what we could.

Travel to Edinburgh

The drive was largely uneventful until we reached the city. Similar to Bath, the experience can be described in 4 words; What. The. Actual. F#*K. Between street closures and mobs of people moving to the Royal Mile it was a zoo. Without hitting anyone with the car (or our fists), we found the car park closest to where we were assembling for the Edinburgh Castle tour and parked.

Edinburgh Castle, Lunch and Shopping

Let me state the obvious for anyone that has done any research into the topography of Edinburgh, it's super hilly. Apparently I am the only person in the world that had no idea the incline we would navigate for the day. We found our tour and were on our way to the castle. But first we had to hike up the 1st 90 degree incline of the day. What a beautiful place Edinburgh Castle! Outside of the 90 degree inclines, it was just magical. Our tour guide, Melanie, born Canadian but Scot by choice. She was quite knowledgeable and very animated in her storytelling. So animated in fact, you didn't want to be too close when she was telling a story because you may get a hand to the face!

As a funny aside, we walked through the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo stage. The boy Koogs and I are doing a British Isles cruise at the end of our holiday while Mrs. Koog does her Yacht/Bike (really moped) vacation with her sisters. On our cruise, we stop in Glasgow. Many people on the cruise were trying to get into "the Tattoo". I didn't think much of it, but did wonder why so many people were trying to get tickets to get some military tattoo in Scotland. I assumed there was some famous tattoo artist in Edinburgh that sold tickets to get inked. Much to my surprise and embarrassment (and I'm sure it's no surprise to any of my readers) the Tattoo is a show of military pageantry. Feeling stupid, I told Mrs. Koog and she promptly laughed at me. Not a small chuckle, but a hearty belly laugh. Not nice, Mrs. Koog.

After the Castle tour, we were hungry. We found a nice place called St. Giles Bistro. E-koog was initially concerned he would not like the ciabatta bread sandwich. He was proven wrong and was a big fan of the ciabatta. B-Koog and I had a ham and cheese croissant and I added a tomato basil soup. Excellent sandwich. The soup was good but it was like being punched in the face with a tomato. I guess I'd describe it as violently tomato. Not bad, but aggressively violent. For those that are worried I've strayed from my diet of no carbs, don't fret. While I indulged a bit with my croissant, I did walk nearly 6 miles. I've been really good about keeping to my diet, but the Scots do love their carbs!

After lunch we looked in the same stores with different names that sold everything from underwear with the Scottish Flags to Hairy Coo aprons to tartan flasks. No matter, we went in more than we passed and it was fun to look around. E and B both got Hairy Coo hoodies. I think the coos were the highlight of their Scotland adventure.

Underground Vaults and Dinner

After a brief separation, B-Koog and I went to look for a very specific Hairy Coo hoodie while Mrs. Koog and E-Koog stayed to watch a street performer, we met up with each other and assembled for our Underground Vault tour. I had read about the vaults and was excited Mrs. Koog had booked the tour. It was super cool, but creepy. After discussing the Heart of Midlothian and why one should spit at it (we did not) and why one should not walk through it (we walked around) we were on our way to the vaults. But before we would arrive at the vaults, we had to walk down a 90 degree angle. I prefer up rather than down to be honest. E-Koog agrees. Anyway, we were told the story of people throwing poo buckets from the high floors in medieval times and sometimes the contents landed on the heads of unsuspecting walkers. Ick.

We've finally reached the vaults and we went it. First, it had a bit of a stink. Like damp musty death. The guide was quite good at building suspense as he walked us through the first vault. It was not uncommon for 30 plus people to find refuge per vault. Apparently, these were also not the most upstanding of society. These were killers, thieves, ladies of the night and smugglers. Still a horrible place to have to stay for any human. The second vault was from a Wican Coven. It was apparently the Coven's second vault in the place, we would get to the first one "in good time."

He took us to vault 3 which was set up as the vaults were originally intended, as storage for merchants. But, due to the vaults being made from limestone and the limestone being porous and Scotland weather being, well Scotland weather, stored goods were ruined and the vaults were abandoned as storage units.

The fourth vault was the original vault for the Wican Coven. They had experienced unexplainable occurrences in this vault. The Coven leader decided to rid the vault of spirits, but to do this he had to spend the night in the vault alone. He built a stone circle to harness the evil spirits. First, he heard talking in the halls. He went to check and called out but no one was there. Upon returning to the vault, there was a loud crash and crack. A mirror in the corner was shattered and a crack from one side of the room to another was made in the ceiling. The Wican Coven leader was like "I'm out" and fled the vault. They moved into another one the next day. The guide invited us to step into the circle but warned us that wican believe stone circles house evil spirits and the only way they can escape is to latch on to a human. Um, no. We walked around the side.

Lastly, we went to the Haunted vault. This was the largest of the vaults and had a pretty high ceiling. The guide told us about a fire that happened at street level that quickly became an inferno across the city. This fire made the vaults like an oven. The fire blocked the entrances and exits, so people were trapped. There were more than 90 souls in the haunted vault that died that day. Basically cooked to death. Morbid AF. He turned the flashlight off and, honestly, I was ready to run. Luckily, we were only in pitch blackness for a few seconds. Both little Koogs were very brave. Braver than big Koog!

After the vault tour, we needed to eat again. Both boys begged to stop walking. We all agreed to trek on to the Grassmarket to find food before heading back to the comfort of the Murder Pod and the hot tub. B-Koog spotted a place called "Mussels and Steak" and that's where we were going. I love a place that delivers 4 amazing oysters for free just for sitting down. Lucky for me, the other Koogs don't like oysters. Yum, more for me! Earlier in the day we stopped at a for Mrs. Koog and I to have an ibuprofen break. She chased hers with hard cider and I chased mine with Ardbeg Whisky. That combination seemed to help for about 4 hours, so when we sat down to eat and order drinks, I repeated my combo with a change from Ardbeg to Talisker. It's from the Isle of Skye and is heavily peated. Gives you that 'bonfire' feeling as Amanda, our Skye tour guide would say.

B-Koog immediately order a pot of mussels, E-Koog wanted a 40oz Tomahawk steak (no) so he settled for a 10oz ribeye, Mrs. Koog had some kind of chowder and I had surf and turf (ribeye and mussles and a ginormous prawn). Not a morsel of food was left on our table. Food was spectacular and the service was equally good. If you find yourself in Edinburgh, the Koog family highly recommends Mussels and Steak in the Grassmarket.

Driving out of Edinburgh and back to the Murder Pod

We found that our car was not far from the restaurant and that was a nice surprise as we were all done walking. I did nearly 17,000 steps. As we were making our way out of the car park, another driver was blocking our way and was just being a turd. I called him a d-bag. I know, I know...bad language Koog. Anyway, we made it out of the garage without hitting anyone with our car or hands and were on our way down the High Street and we were discussing the turd in the garage. B-Koog was giving his account of our exit and said; "and then that dbag cut off Mommy!" Mrs. Koog and I were simultaneously entertained and horrified. Poor B-Koog had no idea that was a curse word and felt embarrassed. We are grateful for his innocence, well he's less innocent now that he's been a passenger in the car with us for the last 13 days. I'm thankful dbag is the only word he's picked up!

As soon as we arrived back at the Murder Pod, Mrs. Koog and I immediately changed into our swim clothes and headed into the hot tub. Ahhh, so glorious after a long day. Shortly afterward, B-Koog joined us. E-Koog decided he'd rather relax on his tablet. We have a very busy day tomorrow...Highland Game and then our train to London, Baby!

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